Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
